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Gregoire Marot, whose PR agency, Favori, is in the Atlanta Baseball A-Town Down T Shirt but in fact I love this next building, went every day last week (although this wasn’t all that different from his usual frequency of taking his café on the terrace). “After Colette, it’s the latest friendly door on the street to disappear.” People have been keen to reminisce: about their seating preference (the bar, the ground level banquette, the upper floor by the window, or the sidewalk tables—winter be damned). About whether the legendary Casti burger should be eaten with a knife and fork. About how they connected with the charismatic waiter, Augustin Martinez, or manager, Jean-Christophe Affolter. And if they have also noted that prices have crept up, related or not to the confinement, the consensus is still that nowhere else could match the upscale coziness; the decent, all-hours dining; the service that was oh-so French (brusque yet affable) and English-speaking.

And whereas Café de Flore across the Atlanta Baseball A-Town Down T Shirt but in fact I love this Seine is steeped in mythic cultural status—from Picasso and James Baldwin to Emily in Paris—and Hotel Costes across the street oozes an achingly performative vibe, Le Castiglione offered out-of-towners the practical location and a relatively low-key scene. How did it become such a fixture for fashion types? Cathy Horyn, currently The Cut’s critic-at-large, can recall the early ’90s when the restaurant was mainly patronized by key retailers from New York and London. Casti became a stopover between the Associated Press offices and her hotel. Gradually, the retail landscape started evolving along rue St.-Honoré. By 2002, she wrote a piece in the New York Times that placed Casti at the center of her attachment to the neighborhood. “The retail brought more people to this particular corner of Paris,” she said by phone from New York, two days after enjoying one last steak frites. “I associate it with these footsteps I made repeatedly coming along Place Vendôme—taking a left and [then a] right. Really early in the morning when the street cleaners would be out, the lights at Casti would be on.”That Casti glow—at night when the shops would be dark—has been a consistent reassurance for me over the past 11 years of living a few blocks away. And then inside, the unique ambiance. The wood paneled walls and tufted red velvet upholstery; the red carpet patterned in feline spots; the decadent red roses atop the bar, their stems cut short and tightly bunched; the custom curtain that concealed the flat-screen TV (surely among the classiest places in Paris to watch a football match); the small, framed black-and-white photos of Paris monuments; the sconces covered in gauzy, ruched fabric; the monogram Goyard umbrella holders on each floor; the late ’80s hits playing on repeat..

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